PART 2 - Contextual Review 

After specialising into Textiles, I have really enjoyed this part of the course although it has been overwhelming at times. I particularly enjoyed using the knit machine and engaging in group projects with Damien Poulain; sharing ideas and working towards a banner focused on feminism around the world and the idea of women not having freedom in what is ‘acceptable’ within society. This was a subject my group that we all felt strongly about so it was a great way to broadcast our views and message.

In the beginning of part 2, during the pairs project; myself and my pair collaborated for a week to produce samples and design outcomes in response to exhibitions in London. At the time I was very pleased with my samples inspired by the Moving to Mars Exhibition at the Design Museum – we focused our shapes and final outcomes on the space suits from the 1960s – 1980s style of the space suits. In my pair, I was a stronger maker where as my partner was a stronger drawer and was much more detailed. Although this made it very challenging at times to collaborate our works together, the final outcome was very successful. Working in a pair definitely taught me that communication is key to achieve an end result where all skills are shown. However now looking back at the first project of part 2, I have seen how much I have developed not only my making skills but also having the ability to come out of my comfort zone; I tended to make samples that look nice and don’t necessarily show the full idea of my concept as best as I could. In my most recent projects I have expressed my own personality and this has been represented through my ideas for my projects and in my samples.

Expressed in part 1 of my contextual review, I struggled to show my ideas and samples through drawings in my sketchbook. I have really tried to push myself to drawing more in and out of my sketchbook to help communicate my ideas as I know this is a very good and fundamental part of textiles as well as fashion. The illustration workshop with Connie Lim, an illustrator from LA, really taught me how to become freer and use multi medias to draw with as opposed to pens and pencils. The exercise where we were encouraged to use continuous line without looking at our page helped me transition into the different drawing exercises and I was pleasantly surprised with the outcomes I produced. Drawing and mark making is something I am definitely warming towards as the course is progressing.

The project that really stood out to me was ‘Multiples’, my chosen multiples of objects included hairbands, can tops, receipts and straws (plastic and paper). The tutorial with Patricia where we had to experiment with different ways of manipulating our materials really helped me explore how to change the purpose of a material in an innovative way. For example; using words including drip, fold, link and tear. This was my most successful project as I used my research to develop my samples. My project was inspired by waste, inspired by artist Tejuoso Olanrewaju. A young Nigerian artist whose works refer directly to issues of environmental degradation. Hence why I decided to use multiples of waste and use their aesthetic to create a new way of using them for the body. One process I used primarily was melting. I melted plastic and using the shape of a hairband I linked the two and created samples combining each process. This was also a very colourful project which is something I always warm towards, the colours of this project were of course inspired from the colours of the neon straws. I feel like having a particular colour scheme is a very important aspect of a project as it really links everything together and helps explain the idea.

Concluding on part 2 of the course, I have definitely grown in comparison to part 1. I have developed my making skills especially with the use of the stitch workshop as I have become familiar with the knit machine; shown in the samples made for the multiples project. My bold use of colour has definitely been expressed and is evident in all final outcomes of my projects. I have also explored areas of femininity in two projects as this is something I feel strongly towards; in the Damien Poulain project I explored this subject by looking into the views on what women can show in terms of body image and what is deemed unacceptable in society. And again, I explored this subject using a different approach in my most recent Denim project where I focused on maternity within women, the moods they feel and the textures within the female body outcomes and experimented with different ways of communicating this onto denim.

Bibliography:  

- YouTube. (2020). Working with Tim Walker: stylists. [online] Available at: -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXVQ3mRFvlI [Accessed 12 Feb. 2020].

- Walker, T., Muir, R. and Thierstein, R. (n.d.). Pictures.

- Thittichai, K. (2014). Reclaimed textiles. London: Batsford.

- Klanten, R., Hellige, H. and Gallagher, J. (2012). Cutting edges. Berlin: Gestalten.

- Wang, Y. (2006). Recycling in textiles. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited.

- Inglis, A. and Buckner, N. (2012). King's Cross. [Place of publication not identified]: [Matador].

- Thomas, K. and McMann, H. (2012). U.S. spacesuits. New York, NY: Springer Science+Business Media, LLC.

- FIFTY SHADES OF FEMINISM. (2017). [Place of publication not identified]: VIRAGO PR.

- Tate, S. and Edwards, M. (1996). The complete book of fashion illustration. Englewood Cliffs, N.J.: Prentice Hall.

- Stone, T., Adams, S. and Morioka, N. (2008). Color design workbook. Beverly, Mass.: Hove.

-Tim Walker Exhibition ‘Wonderful Things’: Victoria and Albert Museum

Final Day of Denim Project

Morning:

Continued with showing my samples on the body and preparing my set up for the critical/walk around. Overall I am happy with how this project went as I feel like I experimented with different materials that I wouldn't usually work with like latex for example. Choosing an idea that was somewhat gory helped me to work with materials I wasn't used to and come out of my comfort zone of making neat samples that looked nice.

However, I am going to go back and work on my samples as I feel like they weren't as strong as I wouldve liked them to be considering how much I enjoyed the research for this project.

CRIT/WALK AROUND SET UP - 

I used today to piece my work together in preparation for the critical on Thursday. I mainly worked outside my sketchbook on my final samples and then later on designed them for the body.

Reflecting on this project I can't tell if I really liked it or I was interested more in the context of my project rather than the samples I was producing. After discussing this with Victoria I am going to go back and really take apart the research I gathered and make links to other things which aren't directly associated with the idea of birth and placentas. 

Work on my samples by - 

• Showing development by linking the veins on the placentas to the veins on a leaf for example, continuously making links and connections to add texture to my samples because at the moment they're quite flat.
• And explore different ways of showing an umbilical cord.
• And continue to draw samples throughout the sketchbook.
• And decide on a clear colour scheme for final samples relating to the interviews with the mothers.

Later on before leaving the studio I went into the stitch workshop as id never been in there before and made a small d=knit sample which I really enjoyed, this is in preparation for my portfolio for my multiples proejct.

Today we worked on our visualisations using our denim samples in the context of our theme.

I decided to focus my visualisation into a fashion illustration and used photocopies of my denim samples and block colours to create the visualisation below.

WORK IN PROGRESS:
I began working with latex as I was thinking about how I could reciprocate the texture of the placenta/umbilical cord. And this texture is slimey/shiny looking. I tried applying a layer of ova glue however this didn’t work as the denim absorbed the glue rather than creating a layer. The latex worker very well and I will be experimenting more with this.
I also experimented with applying colour to my denim. Initially I thought I would bleach the fabric and then apply food colouring however the bleach completely washed away the colour by the morning. So I dyed white fabric and this worked very well. The colours used are inspired by the colours collected from the moods of the mothers I interviewed.

Trialing PVA glue and Latex.

Experimenting with bleaching and adding colour to the denim.

Today we worked with denim, creating samples relating to our collages made on Tuesday.
Over the last few days I found myself quite stuck and not knowing where to move forward with my project. I had a tutorial with Victoria and went back to where my initial research had come from. And I expressed how I was interested in colour, as this is something I always use in my projects. And I’m also interested in midwifery, and the idea of the life cycle and birth; if I had to choose another career pathway it would be midwifery. So taking the inspiration from the Instagram account I found (@herplaceisin) i am going to use the colours from this account as I was most drawn to this.

I began by creating collages linked to the theme of midwifery, generations and looking at the fundamental parts of the female body. I then took these shapes and created swatches out of denim. However I feel like they are too graphic and I need to experiment further with this and make them much more textile and texture based as at the moment they are quite flat.

Over the weekend I am going to interview women who have been through pregnancy and giving birth and gather key words. Once I have these key words I am going to ask people what colours they associate these key words with. The colours I collect from this information will be the colours I move forward with incorporating my denim with.
In the afternoon we did various drawing exercises of our samples made in the morning. I didn’t particularly enjoy this as I wasn’t pleased with my samples. I am going to re do these exercises when my samples reflect my idea more clearly.

Possible ways to incorporate colour within denim;
dyeing denim (food colouring)
Coloured yarns
Bleaching

COLLAGING -

Today we worked with Patricia through various collage activities.
x2 disrupting the narrative by taking away information. Using a singular image.

x2 coming two images with one cut.

x2 disrupting the narrative by adding/combing images together.

I found this exercise very useful as it was quite helping to have on the page what was directly needed to tell your story and makes it more engaging
In the afternoon we then had a demo of how to create a ‘mood board’ we divided our collages into themes and then told to make a mood board for each of these themes.
Denim
Diversity
Colour
From these mood boards we then had to draw out information and shapes that would be relevant for our samples. I explored diversity within hair types; looked at the history of denim; and various mark making relating to the textures of denim.

Group Exercise discussing Winter break work and Research - 

Research Plan:

Connect research to artists who use social media as inspiration to enhance project.

Research artists who convey emotions.

Digital Detox - drawings of emotions without social media. Use a disposable camera as a way of documenting.

History of Denim and digital technology

Research into production of how things are made now using digital technologies vs. traditional methods.

Research into processes. ie. Bianca Saunders bleaching of denim.

Winter Break Research: Inwards Outwards Ideas and Research Generating Project

Looking Inwards:

'DIGITAL FOOTPRINT' 

Above are screenshots of my phone screen time as well as my social media usage including instagram and Snapchat. Reflecting on this I was really shocked and surprised at how much time I'm on my phone and how this time accumulated at the end of the day or week can seem like so much longer to how much time you feel you're on your phone. The impact of social media and screen time could be a possible starting point for this project. 

Journeys/Travel information - 

Above are my two journeys that I do every week. Right is my journey to work on Saturdays and right is my commute to Archway during the week. I was thinking of possibly exploring journeys as this would be visually interesting and the idea that I have been very independent from a young age whilst travelling. Also the concepts of taking different routes but ending up in the same place. 

Google History - 

Bank Statements/Recent Purchases: 

Above are my bank statements, and my Monzo account summary of spending. This shows that I spend most of my money on Entertainment/Eating out.

Progress Tutorial Feedback - 

Multiples Project - 

- more drawing, think of what to use to draw. Consider; tape, wool, scrunched paper, be more experimental.

- Expand more on sampling, take different processes and push away from weaving and mention straws and melting of straws in workflow. 

Pairs Project -

- quite safe in developments

- use the shape of the sample itself rather than limiting to the body, use the silhouette behind and use collage and tracing paper, layering. 

- Be much more experimental (develop, explore and draw)

Print Project - 

- begin with observational drawing 

- produce more work and experiment with shapes

- research into history of kings cross for more inspiration

- relate to print artists for inspiration, techniques used.

Workflow - 

- expand more on evaluation of each project at the end, likes and dislikes of the project. 

- discuss what I would do differently in the project.

- Reflection/review of each project. Highlighting the key likes/dislikes.

Adobe Illustrator Workshop with Victoria

- Technical drawing of garment

Vectors is the difference between photoshop and illustrator 

Resolution Deoendant 

Photoshop - uses Bitmaps measured by (DPI) dots per inch. 

STEPS: 

Duplicate image

Object (image highlighted)
Then create object mosaic. 

Above is an image of the mosaic exercise we did during the workshop, I got an image of my area (Kings Cross) from the internet, followed the steps above and broke down the colours from the image itself. I then used these particular colours to create a repeated pattern by drawing various shapes from my shape menu and repeating this. 

I found this workshop very useful, I had used Adobe Photoshop before so I knew the basics however I will need to practice using illustrator more to develop my designs. I have found the print project interesting in exploring shape and colour however I have struggled with time management and factoring in how many samples I need to produce in a week project. In comparison to the multiples project I have found myself projecting less, possibly because this project is much more flat. 

AFTERNOON LIBRARY WORKSHOP

I found some books relating to the development of Kings Cross.

- Regents Canal

- The Lighthouse

- Development 

- Midland Grand Hotel

- Heavily Based on Architecture

I also found out that the station was originally referred to as 'Battle-bridge' in 1769.

YOUR LONDON (PRINT) PROJECT

Today was more of an independent experimental day. We explored half drop print as well as Lino and heat press printing where we had to come up with a number of samples relating to our shape menu from our designated area. 

I really enjoyed the half drop print, I used one colour (blue) but different shades of blue as think this can look really effective as it contrasts against the different shades. 

In the afternoon I experimented with the Lino printing however I didn't really like the effect this gave. I also tried out the heat press using triangles from my shape menu, although I didn't like the outcome of this sample I don't think it was because of the process, it was more of the composition of my shapes and the colours and textures I used in my design. I am hopefully going to be able to experiment with this technique further. 

Above is an example of the half drop technique, the robot shape came from a building by King Cross station.

YOUR LONDON (PRINT) PROJECT

The area I was given to do my project on is King Cross. At first I wasn't very happy about having Kings Cross as it seemed quite boring to me as I'm here a lot. However after exploring alternative routes other than from the station and back, I found the shapes and building really interesting. I took lots fo pictures to work with. 

We also did a colour exercise with Jo, where we organised the colours into a colour wheel and then discussed what the colours meant to us and how colours can affect our moods and emotions. This was really interesting as it made me think about the colours I am going to use in this project. Especially with the project being on print, I think this is a very important factor. 

MULTIPLES PROJECT

I began my day by finishing off my final samples in preparation for the crit/walk around.

I am really happy with the way that they come out, I included all my materials including plastic/a[per straws, can tops, plastic straws made to look like hairbands and receipts. I tried all different techniques including weave, embroidery, gumming and bonding. 

Below are images of my set up of final samples and A3 visualisation of my samples on the body. 

We were then put into pairs for our evaluation and went through some questions together about the project, which were meant to help us understand some of the assessment criteria as written in the handbook.

Secondary Research - 

Primary Research - drawings, mark making 

Problem Solving - changing materials, finding a new way to make a material work and manipulate it

Technical Skills - Chair weaving

Critical Reflection - through cries, analysed what works and what doesn't work

Time Management - I wish id some more practical work in the first week, I felt like it took longer for me to develop my ideas and really gage what I enjoyed working with and also what processes went with my project the best.

MULTIPLES PROJECT

Today was a full day of making. I decided to focus this day primarily on weave as I wanted to create some final samples using this technique and I really liked the way they turned out. This is because from the start of my project when I decided on the materials I wanted to use I decided on a colour scheme, not only did my artist use bright bold colours, the colours of the straws were also very bright and neon too.

However I needed to source some yarn and other materials to weave with. Alongside my straws, I sourced yarn from charity shops and some from home also. I used bright colours like pink, orange and yellow. 

Below is an image of my work in progress, using the chair to weave. 

In the afternoon we did an exercise in pairs, we went through some keywords and together highlighted what is good and what needs to improve by Thursday. 

Successful?

• Linear, Sabrina explained how she felt my work had a good flow from one swatch to the other.
• Good use of colour

Missing?

• Where plastics straws come from
• Collage/Markmaking

Ways to develop samples?

• Embroidery
• Layering 
• Remember to COMBINE and CONTRAST

MULTIPLES PROJECT

Today we began by combining our current samples and swatches to some context. I decided to relate by work to waste inspired by artist Tejuoso Olanrewaju. He uses current social issues to influence his work and uses found objects in Africa to source his materials.

Final Material Choice:

- Straws, both plastic and paper

- Can tops

- Receipts 

- I am still going to use the idea of hairbands however I am going to make the hairbands out of plastic straws by melting them with the heat press. 

NOTES FROM CRIT WITH VICTORIA:

Enjoying working with straws and hairbands, combine the two to develop work further. 

Keep Experimenting 

- Contrast of Straws

- Weaving, knitting and bonding

- Use keywords from PC workshop

Look at keywords highlighted from artist and make the connection and explained further.

I have also decided my final outcome will be on the body, fashion related.

MULTIPLES PROJECT - DAY 2

Today we began by working with one set of materials at a time and making swatches linked to words.I used today to really experiment with my materials and see how they can be manipulated to make the objects not look like what they are. For example, I wanted to change the hairband so that it didn't look like a hairband anymore. Likewise with the straws, flattening them and melting them really takes away the use of a straw as you can't drink through it anymore.

How successful were your swatches?

My first set of swatches based on the words; tear, cut, fold, scratch, roll and pierce were successful however some materials were easier to work with than others. For example the straws were much easer to work with than the metal can tops as they were easier to tear and shape the shape of them. I will possibly re think what materials I may replace with another material that will work better. 

What materials did you think worked well together the best?

I particularly liked working with the straws and I found I could do more with them, I used the heat press in the afternoon and began experimenting with melting some of my materials including plastic straws which not only merged the colours together it also gave it another dimension. Combining other textured materials together in the afternoon really excited me for next week as I found my wrk moving away from being very flat and having not much meaning to it. I experimented and made further swatches in relation to the words; drip, smudge, bond, press, crease, pin, weave, knot, dip, muddle and align. 

Idea for moving forward with this project: 

I am going to do some further research into the brief given to us and see if any of the concepts/materials they use will inspire my work and give it some context behind it as I prefer making things associated to an idea rather than just making things because they look nice. i am going to focus on their process, practice and the context behind their work. I am also going to do further research into the history and function of my chosen materials.

MULTIPLES PROJECT - TEXTILES

Did you find today successful from the way that you sourced your materials?

I initially only brought in one set of materials which were hairbands, this was at first quite frustrating to work with but then when we went on to do the drawing exercises I found it much more easier as I was only focusing on hairbands and I had many of all different shapes and sizes, I really enjoyed the experimental drawings relating to the words, some of which were; order, disorder, stripes, random, controlled, odd and scatter.

Did you think about sustainability? Can you link sustainability to your work?

I sourced my hairbands from Primark for £1 a pack, although this is a inexpensive way of sourcing materials it was probably not the most sustainable. A more sustainable way of sourcing my materials may have been unwanted found objects, from a car boot sale and possibly from a charity shop. As I have only collected one set of materials so far, my other four objects I will source in a more sustainable way.

hard - can tops

soft - hairbands

maliable - wires

textured - wrappers

dense - playing cards

What can you bring in to be more experimental with the project?

I am going to bring in materials which are more easy to manipulate, take apart, rather than hard and solid materials which are harder to work with and break down. I am also going to Brin gin some more mark making materials to record my swatches and samples that I make.

Damien Poulain Project:

Does the group banner relate back to the manifesto?

initially we focused on making a garment too much rather than making the banner, so I think out manifesto related better to making a garment relating to traditional Chinese dress. However as we developed the project we looked at it as more of a global topic and therefore moved away from the Chinese culture. However our final outcome still relates adressing key words like feminism and consent.

Are the banners representative of the group?

Yes, we are all young women who have or will experience some sort of judgement in what we are wearing or what is acceptable to wear. Especially as a young student this is a topic that is very popular. 

What skills have learnt in the process of this project?

- teamwork

- collaboration

- working with limitations (by the colours)

Final Outcome photographed in an urban environment, we decided to photograph an elderly women next to our work as we initially based our idea on the different perspectives of the older and younger generation. We also created a video of a younger women reacting to out banner as she stops and takes a picture of it.

'HABIT/HABITUS' Damien Poulain Project - 

We started the day by brainstorming ideas with in our group. We eventually came up with the final look of what the banner was going to look like.

We decided to look at it in a more broader worldwide subject as after a conversation with Patricia, we realised it’s actually an issue that happens all over the world where people have different perspectives of what’s acceptable for a women and what he not.

We changed our text to ‘show what you want’ showing women to embrace their body and not hide it and just to promote freedom.

Myself and my group were contemplating whether to have the boobs on the banner as circles or as eggs. We decided collectively to keep them as eggs like the A3 print as in China what we originally based our project on, the egg symbolises reproduction and how women are only seen in society as being needed to reproduce children for the cycle of life. And so not only does it look more interesting and fun, it also is a symbol relating directly to our project. After speaking with Damien about the eggs on our design, he introduced a feminist artist Sarah Lucas to us who used the same idea of using eggs as boobs in her work.

- cut out the yellow shapes out of paper to get the measurements correct.

Damien Poulain Presentation - 

'less you have, more creative you become'

- simple graphics and shapes to create patterns

- block colours

- painting in street gives you a real connection to people and community

Damien Poulain - 'Wall of Doors and of Possibilities' 2019

• Went to tiny village, no wifi service
• noticed textiles curtains in huts, used this inspiration to create curtains for the huts using his own style and geometric shapes. 

My Manifesto:

 I have decided to aim my project at the protests against knife crime, as well as gun crime. It’s something that is continuously increasing especially within the younger generations. It happens so often it does not come as a huge surprise when we see it in the news and this isn’t fair. In order to reduce crime rates, it consists of long-term measures to deal with the causes of crime – including family breakdown, poor education and a culture of indiscipline – tough policing to catch those who carry and use knives, robust sentencing for those committing knife crimes and a way of changing the young people that think this is acceptable. We need to send out a clear message that knife crime is unacceptable, and that carrying a knife will lead to serious punishment. Alongside this, I have focused on the symbols of peace as this juxtaposes against the idea of knife crime as this message is one that is violentand is the opposite to peace. I have focused on peace symbols around the world.

Group Manifesto:

Key Words:

• Consent
• Communication
• Feminism
• Change
• Violence
• Younger Generation
• Conservative

How the young generation use violence as tool to communicate with the conservatisms in order to make some change and consent of the world.

We are going to focus our project on the small change/movement in the view of feminism within china and how there is a contrast in the conservative view and the younger generation. We will look into the time of China from the 1920s to current day, and the idea of Chinas traditional clothing being very covered and conservative. In contrast to now, where the younger generation are being inspired by the western culture, wearing clothes that are more expressive of the feminine body.

Focusing on change from the conservative view to a view more relatable to the younger generation, as we believe it is important for the older generation to understand the change that has happened and is still happening.

Reflection:

What are your key strengths?
neat cutting
Working 3D
Making samples
Colours
Judgement of aesthetic

How will your key skills work collectively?
(to make the banner)
Ella knows how to knit and weave, this would be a good technique to use for the corset of our garment to be worn on the body.
Pattern cutting and delicate samples

What is your plan your time as a group for the week?
Monday evening: work on sketchbook, collage and research expressing idea visually to communicate clearly.

Tuesday: collaborate our ideas visually and start working on the banner using the symbols we came up with individually based on our group idea.

Wednesday: continue banner and make garment from banner, using pattern pieces.

Have you successfully translated your idea today?
Feedback from Damien Poulain:
Using our sketches of what we visualise our end project to look like I think our idea is clear however we need to work on making our idea visually clear through symbols using geometric shape and colour.
Think about how to make a new visual language, is it through graphics?
Define idea between conservative and younger generation.
Possibly come up with a ‘old’ and ‘new’ symbol.

My work and my partner (Vanessa Ho Yi Cheung)

Feedback from other pair:

• Good presentation/layout
• Clear collaboration
• Experiment more with shape
• More observational/quick/detailed drawings. 

How are you going to merge your ideas together as a collaborative project? Rather than making individual responses.

We have distributed tasks for each other to pull our work together as a pair. we have researched come up with a concept together. And now using our own skill sets we are going to develop our samples, drawings and sketchbooks individually. 

Vanessasa's skills are very detailed drawings and linking ideas whereas I enjoy more of the making and creating small samples connected with these ideas using the chosen materials.

How are you going to visually communicate your ideas to an ‘audience’ on Thursday?

We decided to lay out our sketchbooks to show how we have collaborated together, but to also show our own individual style which we both noticed are very different to one another. We are then going to put the samples and images we feel best represent out project outcomes onto an A2 sheet.

'Pairs Project'

Today we began by discussing what we found interesting at our chosen exhibitions with my partner, Vanessa

Group Crit:
Vibrant colours
Collection of found objects
Past vs. Present
Movement changing shape

Possible further research:
Issey Miyaki
Construction of garment, pleats
Structure, shape of fabric
Materials, metals
Collectively we decided to focus our project on the exhibitions Tim Walker wonderful things and Deisgn museum;
Moving to mars.

PROJECT AIM:  

Exhibitions:

• Tim Walker – Wonderful Things
• Design Museum – Moving to Mars
• Barbican – Into the Night
• Tate Modern – Nom June Paik

We are going to focus on the idea of futurism and technology inspired by the ‘Moving to Mars’ exhibition as we were really interested in the fiction and science link to the materials used. We will also be using inspiration from the Tim Walker exhibition, in particular the series of photographs relating to South Asia and the idea of chaos vs. harmony in India. Moving forward, the objective is to combine the idea of futuristic clothing with using materials and colours combines with India and found objects (relating to the Nam June Paik exhibition).

Further Research:Designers that focus on technology possibly Louis Vuitton new collection including digital software in their bags, and possibly Iris Van Harpen who uses digital printing.

Textiles:Looking at ways of using recycled materials like plastics and fusing materials and found objects of metallics to incorporate the inspiration from India. Creating samples.

Fashion:from the samples, create possible design ideas on photoshop: changing the scale and shape etc.